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Posted by BOGBA on June 5, 2017

Top 15 Coolest Neighborhoods in Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires is comprised of 48 barrios, or neighborhoods – far too many for most first or even second-time visitors. So which ones should you make sure feature on your itinerary? Here are our top 15 to fold into your trip:

 Villa Crespo

Villa Crespo is Buenos Aires’ up-and-coming bohemian neighborhood. Nestled between the neighborhoods of Palermo and Caballito in the heart of the city, it’s bustling with art galleries, new cafes and artist workshops. Named after a former mayor of Buenos Aires, Villa Crespo also offers more Jewish and Armenian food than you’ll see elsewhere, thanks to the minority communities that have settled in the area. The neighborhood is also home to the city’s discount leather district. They even have their own neighborhood publication called Amo Villa Crespo, or “I Love Villa Crespo”.


Almagro is still very much a neighborhood rooted in tradition in Buenos Aires. It’s a place where you can stumble across old cafés with signs from the 1950s that remain in business, despite having menus that have remained the same for decades. The barrio‘s main street, Rivadavia, was a key thoroughfare for horse-drawn carriages at the turn of the last century. A working class neighborhood that derives its name from the Spaniard who once owned the land, Almagro is located practically in the dead center of the city. Walk around or visit its Parque Rivadavia and you’ll get a largely family-oriented vibe punctuated by a nod to the past (visit the park on the weekends and check out the book fair for a sizeable selection of antique books, for example).


Oh yes, Palermo – Buenos Aires’ flashiest neighborhood. The fact that it’s subdivided into areas nicknamed “Hollywood” and “Soho” speaks for itself; the neighborhood is full of high-rolling bars, restaurants and boutique shopping. It’s also the home to many remote workers and start-ups, giving it a slight Silicon Valley undercurrent. But the northeast barrio’s beauty isn’t just made of what money can buy. Full of long, leafy streets and sprawling, stately parks surrounded by elegant old homes, Palermo has long been a barrio beloved by locals.

San Telmo

San Telmo is so hot right now. Seriously, it’s true. Historically an artist’s enclave peppered with immigrant and minority communities, the neighborhood went from a rough-and-tumble industrial district to being a home to hipsters, renegade Argentines, beer brewers, artists and a smattering of other sub-cultures. One of the city’s oldest neighborhoods and among the first to be industrialized, San Telmo is nestled right next to the port area of Puerto Madero, where European immigrants were off-loaded by the hundreds in the late 1880s. It’s not dangerous, but it is unpredictable, so stay aware.

La Boca

La Boca, which translates as The Mouth in Spanish, gave voice to Buenos Aires’ large Italian immigrant community, which transformed the country at the turn of the last century. Their brightly-painted El Caminito, or little walkway, pays tribute to the artistry of the area. Located near a port in the city’s south-east, the area was settled mostly by Italians from Genoa and is famous for its Boca soccer team and excellent food. Residents felt so deeply about the barrio in the 1880s that they actually reportedly seceded from the country, calling themselves “The Independent Republic of La Boca.” The move didn’t last long though. The hot-blooded Latin barrio was soon reincorporated into the city proper. Not all areas of La Boca are safe for tourists, so take care if you are planning a visit.


Similar to Almagro, Boedo has retained its old-world feel and is relatively unknown to tourists. Kids ride their bikes on quiet streets while locals sit on the sidewalks on plastic chairs munching on an empanada, or just watching the light filter through the trees. If you’re looking for a down-to-earth, authentic Argentine experience, hang out in Boedo.


Flores! The land of great Korean food. That’s about all that needs to be said. Oh, and be careful – parts of the neighborhood can be a little risky.


A classic upstanding Buenos Aires neighborhood, Belgrano has a lot to offer – from lavishly-designed embassies to lush parks, shopping and fine dining (check out Fleur de Sel). It is also home to the city’s Chinatown, known as barrio chino, which, as you would expect, has plentiful Chinese food. As for the name, Belgrano was originally a person – Manuel Belgrano – a general responsible for the creation of Argentina’s sun-decked national flag. The northern barrio is largely middle-to-upper class, so generally a safe region.


Recoleta is in many ways the Paris of Buenos Aires. Famed for its grand European-inspired architecture, the wealthy northeast neighborhood is home to a number of national monuments and influential cultural sites. Among them is the Recoleta cemetery, a maze of ornate above-ground graves, many of which date back to the end of the last century. The neighborhood has many universities as well, so it all feels rather sophisticated – which may be why famed Argentine writer and thinker Jorge Borges chose to make it his home.

Puerto Madero district of Argentina capital city Buenos Aires © Vladimir Nenezic / Shutterstock

Puerto Madero

As its name suggests, Puerto Madero, or Port Madero, lies on the water in the city’s most easterly point. The waterfront area, which faces Argentina’s Río de la Plata, was developed more recently. It’s where you’ll find the famous Puente de la Mujer bridge, upscale sushi restaurants and, if you’re feeling arty, the excellent Colección Fortabat.

Parque Patricios

Parque Patricios is a quiet neighborhood in the city’s southeast that is home to several technology companies. There’s not much that’s “touristy” about the area, but it is a great place to visit if you’re wanting a taste of daily life in a traditional Buenos Aires barrio.


Coghlan is a northern neighborhood that almost feels like a separate little town. Originally settled by English and Irish immigrants, the community was named after the John Coghlan train station that runs through it. One of the places worth checking out in Coghlan is Almacén Plutarco, which sells fresh-baked artisanal bread that looks like it’s designed by elves!


Monserrat is where you’ll find most of Buenos Aires’ important government buildings, such as the president’s house, the Casa Rosada (do try to catch it at night when it goes all neon) and the famous Plaza de Mayo, where mothers and grandmothers continue to gather in protest in relation to a dark chapter in Argentine history (brush up on that here). Located in the city’s east, the historic neighborhood is full of neo-classical and belle époquearchitecture.


The northern neighborhood of Colegiales may be small, but it has a lot to offer. Namely, great restaurants. La Prometida is an established name, but the barrio has many lesser-known gems, such as Tu Jardín Secreto, an art gallery, garden and private restaurant.


Saavedra is a northern neighborhood known for its varied architecture, large, historic houses and sprawling sports park. One of the oldest parks in the city, Saavedra Park is a great place to go and people watch. There’s an old carousel, and even a bocce ball court, among other sport-related activities. Largely middle-to-upper-class, this tranquil neighborhood is quite safe.

Posted by BOGBA on November 25, 2016

Visit Buenos Aires

Posted by BOGBA on November 3, 2016

Argentina, a country that has it all

Posted by BOGBA on November 3, 2016

The real Buenos Aires by bus

You’ve now been in Buenos Aires long enough to move away from that nervous clinging to the tourist-friendly subte (never a good look), buy or most likely be bought a Guía “T” and start to work out what the hell all these boxes with numbers in them mean. Subsequently you’ve worked out that the 60 goes everywhere (it doesn’t, but for your purposes it does), the 64 and the 152 do nice kind of touristy routes from Belgrano down to La Boca, and that the 39 ramal 3 is the coolest bus in the world.Congratulations.Now things start to get complicated. Now you start to scratch the itch. Now you start to poke your finger into the wound. Now you start to wonder “hey, where does this bus go when I’m no longer on it? Does it cease to exist? Or does it go somewhere really cool/scary/quite awful?” The answer is yes. Unless the question is “Does it cease to exist?” That’s a silly question.


Colectivo bus line 152 buenos airesSo what now?So now you—young, foolish, not really working full-time—start pissing about on the buses, taking them for the hell of it, just to see what happens. Be very wary of this. You will end up writing a book in which you take all the buses in the city, and then people will forever associate you with this one thing, even though you’re really a very complex and multi-faceted guy, actually (new book about trains out this year!) Anyway, here are seven buses you really ought to take. They’re not particularly pretty or entertaining, but they will make you feel immensely superior to all the other expats who’ve never taken them.
The 1.
Yes, there is seriously a bus that is the 1, or el 1 if you’re local. I’m not making this up. There’s a 2 as well. But no 3. You can’t have it all. The 1 goes from Caballito, which you probably already know, straight up Rivadavia to some place called Morón, which no foreigner has ever been to, but where you should definitely go, just to have your photo taken in front of a sign that says Morón. Do it! For extra LOLs, take the photo outside the University of Morón!
The 46.
One of my favourite buses for that whole “wow, how many shanty towns does this bus actually go though?” vibe. The answer is only two, but they seem to take up most of the journey from Liniers to just outside the Boca Juniors stadium. The time I took this one, this guy got on with his own chair, lit up a doobie-doo, then filed down various lengths of copper piping with a view to smoking something stronger. I want to say “only on the 46”, but such behaviour is probably endemic these days. If you want to slum it some more, the 70, the 76, the 23 and the 26 all go through either Villa 21-24 (Barracas) or Villa 1-11-14 (Bajo Flores). The 26 ends its route in the latter and drops you off there, then laughs at you panicking and trying to figure out how you get out of there. You take the 26, just round the corner. Silly.

The 4 (recorrido B)
Have you ever wondered what’s beyond the nature reserve on Costanera Sur, aside from the easternmost point (FACT) of Buenos Aires? There’s a whole load of naval junk and abandoned shipyards. It’s amazing, seriously. You can also see the Monumento a España, Christopher Columbus kneeling before Queen Isabel, which no one even knows about, even though it’s just down the road from Puerto Madero, on Avenida España, obviously. (NB: Puerto Madero is named after a Mr Madero and does not mean “Wooden Port”, contrary to what this author believed for several years. It isn’t even wooden.)
The 33 (ramal C or D)
So then you wonder “what’s over there, further south, beyond the nature reserve and all this naval junk?” You had to ask. That there is Dock Sur, or Docky as the locals endearingly call it, once a place called Isla Maciel where the upper classes used to go and take in the waters, then a barrio of old conventillos where young men would go to pop their cherries with prostitutes. Not much has changed, not least the conventillos, humble two or three-storey nineteenth century boarding houses, while the area has become a gastronomic hub for Paraguayan cuisine (check out Lo de Felisberto, a Paraguayan-Korean hole in the wall fusion kind of place on Ponce and Angulo.) The 33 is one of only two buses that goes over Puente Nicolás Avellaneda rather than the workaday Puente Pueyrredón, so you get to see the old transborder bridge and the conventillos and thousands of containers in the port and the Boca Juniors stadium, all from your elevated position on the bus. It’s quite nice. And then if you get the 33 back into town, it takes you all along the riverside from Retiro up to Ciudad Universitaria (UniverCity), which is quite nice too, because you remember this city has got a river and you go “oh look! A river! I forgot.”
The 50/The 5
Both buses leave from Retiro and pass by what is one of the most interesting forms of brutalist architecture in Buenos Aires, Barrio Piedrabuena, which went up in the late 70s and has been crumbling apart ever since, but which despite its maintenance problems has a flourishing arts and cultural centre. The 5 passes by along Avenida Piedrabuena while the 50 goes into the barrio, under the bridges linking the various monoblocks. Both lines stop on the threshold between Mataderos and La Matanza, where there’s a Petrobras service station which is a bit of a godsend if you’re taking all the buses in the city and find yourself in this part of town quite a lot and are easily scared.
The 28
Ever wanted to travel all the way round the City of Buenos Aires without actually entering it? Well, you can’t. But almost. Starting at Ciudad Universitaria, take the 28 (ramal D) all the way to Puente Alsina (it might say Puente Uriburu on the sign, they’re just being old-fashioned/old-fascists) in darkest Pompeya. Pretty grim so far, huh? Try not to tarry in Pompeya, it’s a dump, and jump on any 28 that says Retiro on the sign. You have now completed a near circle of the city. But does the 28 go from Retiro to Ciudad Universitaria to complete the circle? Well, no. You’ll have to take the 33 or the 160. If you have quedated with the leche, as the kids say, and really must take a circular bus route, take the 61 or 62 from Constitución or Retiro, and they’ll take you in circles around the city centre until you’ve had enough, which won’t take long. (Exciting tip: Instead of going to Pompeya, take the 28’s ramal H or J to Puente de la Noria, possibly the biggest clusterfuck of a transport interchange, if that’s your thing. Expect to have the song “Gloria” by Laura Branigan in your head for the rest of the day, because of this).

Posted by BOGBA on September 16, 2014

Guide to Buenos Aires

Update: Some offers mentioned below are no longer available. View the current offers here – Citi Prestige Card

For first timers in Argentina’s capital, it’s often love at first sight. There is a reason Buenos Aires has been called the Paris of South America, after all. The melting pot of immigrants inspired the city’s wide range of architecture, from downtown’s Spanish colonial-style former Jesuit mission, Manzana de las Luces, to the Art Deco Kavanagh building, Latin America’s tallest skyscraper when it was built back in 1936.

The sprawling city spans 78 square miles and is home to 38 barrios, or neighborhoods, from cobblestoned San Telmo, one of the oldest that’s known for its tango and arts scene, to the newer Puerto Madero along the canal, with warehouses that have been converted into hip bars and restaurants. With a favorable exchange rate of $1 to 15.1 Pesos, and the elimination of the $160 visa fee, it’s a great time to plan a trip to the capital city. Here’s a guide on how to use your points and miles for your next trip to Buenos Aires.

Getting There

One of the many terraces lining the bar-heavy neighborhood of Palermo. Image courtesy of the Buenos Aires Tourist City Board.

Buenos Aires is home to two airports: Jorge Newbery Airport (AEP), serving many domestic flights and neighboring countries, and Ministro Pistarini International Airport (EZE), catering to the majority of international and long-haul flights. American Airlines operates nonstop flights to Dallas/Fort Worth (DFW), Miami (MIA) New York (JFK), and Oneworld partners like LATAM Airlines also offer service from MIA. Round-trip flights in economy range from 40,000-60,000 miles, while round-trip in business class requires 115,000 miles.

Delta offers a daily nonstop flight from Atlanta (ATL) to Buenos Aires with award travel starting at 30,000 miles one-way in economy, or 75,000 one-way in business. On United, travelers can book nonstop flights to EZE from Houston’s George Bush Intercontinental Airport (IAH), with round-trip in economy starting at 60,000 miles and business-class seats starting at 110,000.

For the ins and outs of booking tickets to Buenos Aires using miles, see How to Book Award Travel to Buenos Aires. 

Getting Around

Buenos Aires
Explore Buenos Aires’ 38 different barrios, or neighborhoods, by bike or public transport. Image courtesy of the Buenos Aires Tourist City Board.

From Ministro Pistarini International Airport, it takes about 50 minutes to reach the center of Buenos Aires, depending on traffic (which is notoriously bad in the evenings). Tienda León operates a bus service that runs from the airport to Puerto Madero and costs about $13 each way. You can purchase tickets online or at the airport.

From Terminal C, you can hop on the ArBus shuttle that heads into the Palermo neighborhood, leaving every 30 minutes from 6:30am until midnight. One-way tickets are about $2 and can be purchased in the Arrivals terminal at the airport or online.

There’s also the option of a taxi, which you can order at one of the white Taxi Ezeiza stands inside the airport. A taxi ride costs about $30.

Once you’re in Buenos Aires, you can explore the city a number of ways. With over 80 miles of bike paths and 90 free bike rental stations spread across town, cycling is one option (although if you’re not familiar with the roads and traffic, this may be a bit intimidating at times).

Neighborhoods like Telmo, Palermo Viejo and Soho, Recoleta and Balvanera, as well as the central downtown area, are easy to explore by foot thanks to the increasing number of pedestrianized streets. One of the quickest ways to jet across town is the Subte, or underground train network, one of Latin America’s oldest. Buy a rechargeable SUBE card at post offices, kioskos (or corner shops), or at one of eight Tourist Assistance Centers. Trains run every 10 minutes, and trips are only 4.5 Pesos (or $0.30). SUBE cards can also be used on the ArBus shuttle from the airport. 

Where to Stay

InterContinental Buenos Aires
Stay in five-star points properties like InterContinental Buenos Aires. Image courtesy of the hotel.

IHG features a number of properties for all styles and budgets spread throughout the city and even near the airport. The 114-room Holiday Inn Buenos Aires Ezeiza Airport is just 10 minutes from the airport and offers a comfortable, upscale stay with gourmet grilled fare at its traditional Argentinean eatery, El Mangrullo. Rates start at $126 or 20,000 points per night. In historic Monserrat, meanwhile, you’ll find the regal InterContinental Buenos Aires, a five-star hotel with 309 rooms, two restaurants and a health club with an indoor pool and spa. Rates are from $220 or 30,000 points per night. If you’re in need of IHG points, you could sign up for the IHG Rewards Club Select Credit Card and earn 60,000 points after you spend $1,000 in the first three months. This card has a $49 fee that’s waived the first year.

Park Tower, A Luxury Collection Hotel is another five-star spot in the city center, located near many of the museums and theaters, with 181 rooms showing off sweeping views of the river or skyline. Rates are from $368 or 16,000 Starpoints per night. To boost your SPG balance, you might consider the Starwood Preferred Guest Credit Card from American Express(with a $95 annual fee that’s waived the first year), which is currently offering a sign-up bonus of 25,000 points after you spend $3,000 in the first three months. You can also transfer points from Marriott at a 3:1 ratio.

If you’re able to find a decent cash rate at one of these hotels or another property in Buenos Aires, it could be worth paying with the Citi Prestige Card ($450 annual fee), which is currently offering a sign-up bonus of 40,000 points after you spend $4,000 in the first three months. With this card, you’ll get a fourth night free when you book your stay through the Citi concierge.

What to Do

El Querandi Tango Show
Fill up on Argentine culture with a traditional tango show. Image courtesy of El Querandi Tango Show’s Facebook page.

Dinner and a Show — One of the highlights of a trip to Argentina is tango, best served alongside local wine and steak. Take a seat in a restored 19th-century home that’s been converted into restaurant and performance venue El Querandi, located in the city’s Old Town. The show makes its way through tango’s five historical moments from the late-19th-century immigrant arrival to the modernism of the 1950s, performed to the beat of Ado Falasco’s orchestra.

Buenos Aires Street Art
Bike through Buenos Aires’ street art on a guided tour. Image courtesy of McKay Savage via Flickr.

Bike Around Town — Hop on a bike and tour a more off-beat side of Buenos Aires on Biking Buenos Aires’ Hidden Graffiti & Urban Art Tour, which crisscrosses through the neighborhoods of San Telmo, Monserrat, La Boca and Barracas for a look at why the city is considered one of the world capitals of street art. When you wrap up the tour, head back to the bike center for a speakeasy-style wine pairing with local cheese and homemade treats.

The Argentine Experience
Whip up gaucho-style veggies like a pro at The Argentine Experience’s dinner party-style class. Image courtesy of The Argentine Experience’s Facebook page.

Cook Like a Local — While some cooking courses can be cheesy, The Argentine Experience takes on a more Latin American approach, teaching the class in dinner party form. While sipping on Malbec, you’ll learn how to prep local faves like empanadas and alfajores cookies with the help of a team of chefs who’ll show a few tricks and tips on perfecting these classics.

For more trip ideas, see Destination of the Week: Buenos Aires, Argentina.

What are some of your favorite things to see and do in Buenos Aires? Share with us in the comments below.

Featured image courtesy of Quim Pagans via Flickr.

May 12, 2020

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    May 11, 2020

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    Quality linnens Quality linnens Cozy living spaces Cozy living spaces Smart TVs Smart TVs Open outdoor spaces Open outdoor spaces High Speed WIFI High Speed WIFI Touchfull details Touchfull details Local guides & tips Local guides & tips Secure buildings Secure buildings Fully Equipped Kitchen Fully Equipped Kitchen Coffee makers Coffee makers Bathroom amenities Bathroom amenities High cleaning standards High cleaning standards

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      December 19, 2019

      BERUTI Studio apartment

      Studio apartment in a great modern building. Near Santa Fe Avenue, and Metro D.
      24 hours security, laundry, terrace with jacuzzi.

      Amazing studio with balcony. Fully equipped. High speed private wifi, TV and kitchen! Ideal for the best stay in Palermo!


      Monthly: usd 1000

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      December 19, 2019

      ORO Studio apartment

      Studio apartment in a great modern building. Near Santa Fe Avenue, and Metro D.
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      December 17, 2019

      Studios in Belgrano


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